Is It Hard to Drive in Italy? What Americans Need to Know

Is it hard to drive in Italy? Really?

You’ve probably heard the stereotype — wild Italian drivers speeding around hairpin turns like it’s a race track. But come on, that can’t be true everywhere in Italy, right?

As an American used to wide highways and automatic cars, I had the same worries before my trip. When I rented a car in Bergamo for two weeks, I had to tackle narrow mountain roads, winding passes, and the busy routes around Lake Garda. 

Believe it or not, parking gave me the most anxiety — I’d leave my car for days in a so-called “free white zone” and then spend the whole time worrying I’d return to find a ticket on the windshield or the car towed away.

In this guide, I’ll share what it was really like to drive in northern Italy as an American — the challenges, the pleasant surprises, and the tips I wish I’d known before I got behind the wheel. By the end, you’ll know whether driving in Italy is safe and manageable for visitors, and how to make the experience smoother.

Is Driving in Italy Hard for Americans?

Not really — at least not in northern Italy. The roads are well maintained, the drivers are calmer than the stereotypes suggest, and exploring by car can be incredibly rewarding. That said, Americans do face a learning curve with things like parking zones, ZTL restrictions, and toll booths.

👉 If the idea of driving in Italy still makes your palms sweat, you might like my post on overcoming fear of driving a rental car in Italy. It’s full of practical tips and reassurance for first-time drivers abroad.

Let’s start with the basics — what the roads in northern Italy are actually like.

Road Conditions in Italy

I didn’t know what to expect from the actual roads in Italy, but I assumed there would be lots of construction zones and worn-out pavement. Italy is old after all and public works are often delayed.

Instead, I was surprised to find the provincial roads in northern Italy were some of the smoothest I’ve ever driven — freshly paved, usually with shoulders or at least brightly painted white lines, and with no construction in sight. 

Granted it was summer, but from Bergamo to Lago di Iseo, Clusone, Onore, San Pellegrino Terme, Lake Garda, and Val Brembana, every drive felt straightforward and well maintained.

What surprised me just as much as the roads were the drivers themselves. I’d heard all the stereotypes about Italians speeding and weaving through traffic, but that wasn’t my experience at all. 

Most people drove at normal speeds, stayed in their lanes, and flowed easily through the endless roundabouts. Sure, there were a few nerve-wracking moments on tiny mountain roads where I wasn’t sure how two cars could possibly pass, but overall, the driving felt calmer and more predictable than I expected.

Italian Driving Style

Roundabouts Everywhere

Despite all the warnings I’d heard about Italian drivers being aggressive, I found the opposite to be true — most drove at normal speeds and flowed easily with traffic.

What really stood out, though, was the sheer number of roundabouts. Instead of sitting at traffic lights, we were constantly circling and counting exits.

I had my iPhone hooked up to the console so my daughters could follow the map too, and every time we’d approach a roundabout, one of them would call out, “Second exit” or “Third exit!” Then we’d all count together — one, two, three — while I gripped the wheel like a nervous nelly.

Sometimes it was confusing to decide whether something actually counted as an exit, and we even came up with silly names for the shapes we saw on the map, like “tree pose.” It became a running joke of our trip, and honestly, made the roundabouts more fun than frustrating.

Mountain Road Driving

One of the few times driving did make me nervous was when I missed a turn and the GPS rerouted us onto a provincial road in the Colli San Fermo, part of the Italian pre-Alps between Foresta Sparsa and Grone.

 On the map, the road looked like a stack of squished Zs — and sure enough, each one was a hairpin switchback. The pavement twisted back and forth, barely wide enough for a single car, with steep drop-offs on the side. 

Every bend had me silently praying no one would come from the opposite direction. I was definitely feeling that “Italian driving stress” people warn you about — though, to be fair, the locals handled those roads calmly, like it was no big deal.

Probably because they are all driving manual transmissions while I was driving a car with an automatic transmission.

Manual transmission gives you better control on these steep mountain roads thanks to engine braking. If you’re planning to rent an automatic, I recommend checking out my guide on renting automatic cars in Italy.

If mountain roads tested my nerves behind the wheel, parking tested my patience once I got back to the apartment.

Parking in Italy

Parking in Italy was, oddly enough, the part that stressed me out the most. After picking up my rental car at the airport and driving it back to my apartment, my first thought was: now what do I do with it?

Italy uses a color-coded system for parking:

• Blue = paid (buy a ticket from a nearby machine and display it on your dash)
• White = free
• Yellow = residents only (avoid these)
  

Sounds simple enough, right? But here’s where it got confusing. I left my car in a white zone for two days, thinking I was safe. Then I noticed a sign with a wrench icon, the hours “9,00–19,30,” and “90 minuti” next to a disco orario (parking disk).

I snapped a picture and sent it to an Italian friend, who explained: the wrench icon meant “business hours,” and the sign limited parking to 90 minutes on weekdays between 9 am and 7:30 pm.

Yikes. I had left my car there for two full days, relieved to avoid driving — and instead spent that time dreading what I’d find when I came back. Would it be covered in tickets? Would it still be there? Would I get a surprise fine in the mail weeks later?

Luckily, my car was always where I left it, and I never received a fine (that I know of). But the stress made me rethink the “free” option.

One day, when the white zone was full, I used an underground parking garage instead. It cost €15 per 24 hours — not cheap, but the peace of mind was worth every euro.

Parking turned out to be stressful enough — but at least I chose where to leave the car. ZTL zones, on the other hand, could be an  invisible trap waiting to catch the unsuspecting tourist.

ZTL Zones

ZTL stands for Zona Traffico Limitato — or Limited Traffic Zone. These are restricted areas, usually in the historic centers of towns and cities, where only residents, taxis, and delivery vehicles can drive during certain hours. 

For tourists, driving into a ZTL almost always means a steep fine, and many Americans only find out weeks later when the rental car company forwards them the ticket.

I was lucky in Bergamo because I never had to deal with ZTLs. Our apartment was in a perfect location — we could walk up Via Pignolo to the Città Alta or down into the lower town, and we only used the car when we were leaving the city altogether. That saved me a lot of stress.

Once, when we drove to Lovere, I was about to turn into a ZTL but caught the sign just in time. In my experience, the zones were clearly marked, but you do have to pay attention.

In Bergamo, for example, I noticed the ZTL signs had digital displays where the hours changed throughout the day — so what was restricted at one moment might be open later.

The safest rule of thumb? Never drive into the centro (historic center) of any Italian town or city. Park outside the restricted zone and walk in. It’s less stressful, and you’ll avoid expensive fines that can turn a fun road trip into an expensive mistake.

Avoiding ZTLs is one of the biggest challenges of driving in Italy — but even before you hit the road, the rental process itself comes with a few surprises Americans should know about.

Tips for Renting a Car

Manual vs. Automatic

Most rental cars in Italy are manual, and while automatics are available, they usually cost more and book up quickly. If you’re not comfortable driving a stick shift, it’s worth reserving an automatic well in advance. I wrote a full guide on renting automatic cars in Italy if you want to dive into the details.

Insurance & Coverage

I’ll be honest — I was definitely over-insured for my first Italian rental. I booked with my Bank of America travel credit card (which includes coverage) and still paid extra for full coverage through the rental agency.

I probably didn’t need both, but you hear horror stories about companies charging tourists for every little scratch — even ones underneath the car.

In the end, it was worth it for peace of mind. At drop-off, the process was blissfully simple: I handed over the keys, they confirmed the gas tank was full, and that was that.

For a first-time rental, opting for full coverage helped ease my nerves. If you’re feeling the same way, you might also find my post on overcoming fear of driving a rental car in Italy reassuring.

Pick-Up & Drop-Off Logistics

For my rental, I stayed in Bergamo for a month but only rented the car for the middle two weeks. Picking it up was simple: I took the bus out to the airport and got the keys at the Hertz counter. 

Returning it two weeks later was just as easy — though the shuttle bus from the rental car lot back to the airport was absolutely packed.

I had the option of returning the car at a city-center location, but the airport felt much less stressful. In general, airports are the most convenient place for Americans to rent a car in Italy. The staff usually speak English, the pick-up process is straightforward, and you don’t have to worry about navigating tight city streets right away. 

City-center rental locations are an option, but they often come with more stress — both in finding them and in driving out of the city traffic.

Fuel & Toll Roads

Before you start driving, make sure you know whether your car takes benzina (gasoline) or diesel. I filled up at a full-service station, and the attendant couldn’t have been nicer. I just rolled down the window, said “pieno per favore” (full tank, please), and he did the rest. I didn’t even have to get out of the car.

As for tolls, Italy’s main highways are called the Autostrade, and they use a ticket-and-booth system. When I rented my car at Hertz, I was offered a transponder, but it cost €15 a day — and since I had no intention of driving on the Autostrada, I declined.

Of course, travel doesn’t always go as planned. One day I accidentally ended up on the Autostrada after a confusing roundabout. Before I knew it, I was in the left lane marked with a yellow sign — the Telepass (transponder) lane. 

In the U.S., toll booths usually have a long lead-up, but in Italy this one appeared immediately. I froze. I couldn’t pay because that lane doesn’t take cards or cash, so I just sat there, waiting. Luckily, no one pulled up behind me, and after a few tense minutes, the barrier miraculously lifted and I drove through.

At the next exit, I thought I’d do better. I re-entered the Autostrada and chose a lane that accepted credit cards. Except this time, my card didn’t work. I pressed the button for the attendant, and in frantic Italian tried to explain what happened. 

She kept repeating “devi pagare” (“you have to pay”), and eventually my card worked and the barrier went up. My daughter caught the whole scene on video, and we posted it on Instagram — the reel has since gone viral with over 2.2 million views.

Costs & Hidden Fees

Rental costs in Italy can add up quickly if you’re not prepared for the extras. For example, I asked about adding another driver, but since my daughters were under 25, the fee was high enough that I declined. I also skipped the GPS add-on, since we could just connect an iPhone to the console.

👉 Pro Tip: bring a cord — Bluetooth doesn’t always work.

Other common fees include one-way drop-off charges (if you pick up in one city and return in another) and the daily transponder rental for Autostrada tolls. I declined those as well. Because I prepaid for my rental and opted for full coverage, the final price was exactly what I expected — no surprises at drop-off.

That said, Italy is strict about traffic enforcement. Even if the rental company doesn’t tack on unexpected fees, you might still get tickets in the mail weeks later. I fully expect to be billed for my toll booth mishap, and possibly for overstaying in a white zone or for speeding.

On provincial roads, the posted limits can be surprisingly low — sometimes just 30 kph — which can feel nearly impossible to maintain in an automatic car (something I go into more detail on in my post about renting automatic cars in Italy).

Here are some of the most common rental fees to watch out for:

👉 Tip: A comparison site like Discover Cars shows these fees upfront, so you know what to expect before you book.

Overall, renting in Bergamo was smooth and affordable because I prepaid and skipped most of the extras. Prepaying gave me peace of mind and helped me avoid unexpected costs at the counter. 

If you’re planning to rent a car in Italy, I recommend using Discover Cars to compare prices across multiple agencies. It’s easy to see your options side by side and choose the coverage that works best for your trip.

When You Should (and Shouldn’t) Drive

The biggest question isn’t just whether you can drive in Italy, but whether you actually should. In some situations, having a car is pure freedom — in others, it’s nothing but stress.

When Driving Makes Sense

Driving is hands-down the best way to explore Italy’s countryside, small towns, lakes, and mountain regions. During my stay in Bergamo, I loved having a car for day trips to places like Clusone, Onore, San Pellegrino Terme, Lovere, Sarnico, Lake Garda, and the Val Brembana. 

These spots are either difficult or impossible to reach by train or bus, and having the car gave me the flexibility to explore at my own pace. Some of my favorite memories came from pulling off on scenic stretches of road that I never would have seen on public transport.

When Driving Is More Hassle Than It’s Worth

On the other hand, driving in major Italian cities is almost never worth it. Places like Rome, Florence, Milan, and Naples are packed with traffic, ZTL zones, and limited parking. 

Even in Bergamo, I avoided driving into the Città Alta. Walking up Via Pignolo was not only easier but also far more enjoyable than stressing over where to park. 

In cities, public transport, walking, or even taxis are a much better choice than battling your way through crowded streets behind the wheel.

Hybrid Strategy (Best of Both Worlds)

For many travelers, the smartest option is a mix: use public transportation or walking when you’re in the city, then rent a car for day trips or the countryside. 

That’s exactly what worked for me in Bergamo. Our apartment was in the perfect location for walking into both the Città Alta and the lower town, so the car often stayed parked for days at a time. But when it was time to head into the mountains or out to Lake Iseo, having the rental made those trips possible.

I was based in Bergamo for a month while exploring the countryside of my ancestors, and having a car gave me the freedom to visit small towns and valleys that were deeply meaningful to me — places I never could have reached by train. This balance gave me the flexibility to explore without the constant stress of city driving.

Final Thoughts: Would I Do It Again — And Should You?

So, is driving in Italy hard? Not as hard as the stereotypes would have you believe — but it does depend on where you go and how you approach it. 

For me, driving in northern Italy wasn’t about racing down chaotic highways or dodging “crazy” drivers. It was about navigating smooth provincial roads, puzzling through roundabouts with my daughters, holding my breath on mountain switchbacks, and yes — stressing over parking signs I didn’t fully understand.

Would I do it again? Absolutely. I was based in Bergamo for a month while exploring the countryside of my ancestors, and having a car meant I could reach villages, valleys, and mountain roads that held meaning far beyond a guidebook. 

Those experiences wouldn’t have been possible by bus or train — and I intend on going back to explore even more. Next summer I’m planning a solo ancestry trip, which will also give me the chance to experience what it’s like to drive in Italy as a woman traveling alone.

But should you? That depends on your trip. If you’re sticking to major cities, skip the car and enjoy the walkability and transit. If you want to discover small towns, lakes, and the landscapes in between, renting a car can turn a good trip into an unforgettable one. 

For me, it connected me not just to the country, but to my own family’s history — and that’s worth every roundabout and wrong turn.

Read More Of My Italy Travel Tips and Stories:

• The Best Way To Rent A Car In Italy — From Someone Who’s Done It
• Renting Automatic Cars in Italy: What to Know
• Overcoming Fear of Driving a Rental Car in Italy
• What I’m Packing For A Month In Italy On My Ancestry Trip
• Ancestry Tours In Italy: What To Expect