What To Eat In Bergamo And Where To Try Best Local Dishes

Think Northern Italy doesn’t have great food? I thought the same—until we spent a month living and eating in Bergamo.

Since we were staying in an apartment, we had planned to shop at the market and cook most of our meals. That lasted about a day. It quickly turned into a mission to eat out as often as possible. Exploring Bergamo’s eateries became our main form of entertainment.

The food here is seriously good. Yes, it’s rich—salamis, cheeses, and stuffed pastas like casoncelli—but even after finishing a heavy meal, we soon found ourselves craving the unique Bergamascan cuisine again and again. 

Plus, with all the walking we did from our apartment in Palazzo Borgo up to Città Alta, we needed something hearty to keep us going. That’s what I’m telling myself anyway.

Whether you’re popping in for a day trip from Milan or settling in for a few days (or 30) like we did, here’s exactly what to eat in Bergamo—and where to find the best local dishes that left us wanting more.

What To Eat In Bergamo

Start With Tagliere: The Ultimate Bergamo Meat & Cheese Boards

Tagliare means “to cut” in Italian. And tagliere means cutting board—the Italian version of a charcuterie board. In Bergamo, you can order a tagliere with just cheeses, just meats, or a mix of both.

Thanks to more than 120 grazing lands and pastures in the valleys surrounding Bergamo, there are more than 30 traditional cheeses being produced. Nine of them have Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) status.

We drove through these valleys full of herds grazing on alpine pastures to a family-run farm about 50 minutes outside the city for a cheese making workshop at Agriturismo Fattoria della Felicità. We learned to make primosale, a fresh, mild cheese that’s ready to eat within hours of shaping.

Stirring warm milk, molding it into little forms, and salting the tops ourselves gave us a whole new appreciation for the craft behind even the simplest cheeses. It was one of the most memorable experiences of our trip—I’ll be sharing the full details (and how you can do it too!) in an upcoming post.

I thought I could live on just Bergamo’s cheese, until I tried the Bergamo salamis. You’ll often find pancetta, salame, cotechino, and local sausage on a tagliere too, each bringing a different richness and spice level.

A tagliere can be ordered as an appetizer before a meal, or enjoyed on its own as a light meal during aperitivo. The best part is that aperitivo can be enjoyed anytime of day. On our food tour in Bergamo, we had our first tagliere with Valcaleppio wine for aperitivo at 10:30 AM. A great start to the day!

Next Up: Casoncelli alla Bergamasca and Scarpinocc

Another way to enjoy Bergamo’s incredible salamis is by eating the stuffed signature pasta. Casoncelli alla Bergamasca are half-moon shaped pastas—Bergamo’s version of ravioli, but with way more ingredients and complex flavors.

Every family has their own recipe, and everyone insists their nonna’s are the best. The filling varies, but classic versions usually include pork, beef, cheese, breadcrumbs, garlic, pear, raisins, amaretti cookies, egg, parsley, and (of course) some of nonna’s secret spices.

If that sounds a bit too rich, try scarpinocc instead. These look like casoncelli but are filled only with cheeses and breadcrumbs—no meat—making them a lighter but still indulgent option. 

Both casoncelli and scarpinocc are traditionally served with a warm sage butter sauce, and finished with a sprinkle of grated Grana Padano. Simple, rich, and tasty.

Don’t Skip the Polenta (Even If It’s Not Your Thing)

Polenta, a cornmeal-based dish, is deeply woven into Bergamo’s culinary history—even if it’s not exactly photogenic. Don’t be turned off by its humble appearance. When it’s done right—especially with melted Taleggio cheese or earthy mushrooms—it’s surprisingly satisfying.

Ironically, polenta both sustained and harmed generations of Bergamaschi. For centuries, it was the only reliable food source during hard times. But the way corn was processed stripped out essential nutrients, leading to pellagra, a degenerative disease caused by malnutrition.

Because of this, many Northern Italians still avoid polenta—it carries memories of hunger and poverty. But in Bergamo today, it’s been reclaimed and elevated. You’ll find it served in fine restaurants, topped with sausages, cheese, or even a simple sage butter sauce.

It’s still not my go-to, but I’m glad I gave it a chance.

Save Room for Stracciatella: It Was Born in Bergamo

Before living in Bergamo for a month, gelato gianduia was my all time favorite Italian ice cream flavor. Move over gianduia, hello stracciatella!

Stracciatella was invented right here in Bergamo by Enrico Panattoni, the owner of La Marianna, a historic gelateria in the Upper Town. 

The story goes that he poured melted chocolate into churning fior di latte gelato. As it hit the cold mixture, the chocolate hardened and broke into thin shards—much like the egg ribbons (stracciatella) in the Roman soup of the same name. 

And just like that, a new gelato flavor was born. You can still try it at La Marianna today, right where it all began.

End With Polenta e Osei: Bergamo’s Cute and Confusing Cake

An iconic dessert you have to try in Bergamo is polenta e osei. This is a sweet sponge cake soaked in rum and filled with a chocolate hazelnut center and decorated with tiny chocolate birds.

The bright neon mound of yellow cake (or golden yellow from a more natural recipe) is intended to look like polenta but it is not actually made from polenta. And the little chocolate birds are meant to mimic a traditional quail dish served over polenta. 

So there is the real polenta e orsei dish which is polenta topped with little birds like quail and there is the sweet cake meant to look like the real thing but instead made of marzipan and chocolate and topped with tiny chocolate birds.

One of the locals told me they think the tiny chocolate birds on Polenta e Osei look like… well, let’s just say something else entirely. Once they said it, I couldn’t unsee it—but that didn’t stop me from trying this quirky dessert that’s become a Bergamo icon.

What To Drink In Bergamo

Sitting at an outdoor table with a refreshing drink is one of my favorite things to do in Bergamo (and all of Italy, honestly). Whether it’s sparkling water, local wine, or an Aperol Spritz, here’s what to sip while soaking up the views.

San Pellegrino: Bubbles from the Source

Let’s start at the source—literally. Just 20 minutes from Bergamo, San Pellegrino Terme is where Italy’s most iconic sparkling water bubbles up from the ground and flows straight into those elegant green glass bottles. You’ll find it on tables all over the city.

Franciacorta: Italy’s Answer to Champagne

Not technically from Bergamo, but just next door in Brescia, Franciacorta is Italy’s finest sparkling wine. Made using the metodo classico (the same double fermentation process as Champagne), it’s rich, refined, and totally celebratory. If you’re a fan of bubbles, don’t miss it.

Aperol Spritz: Light, Pretty, and Perfect

I’d be lying if I said I didn’t have a Spritz every day in Bergamo. This is your classic combo of Aperol and Prosecco over ice, topped with soda water and usually garnished with an orange slice. It’s light, refreshing, perfect for vacation.

Valcalepio DOC Wines: Bergamo’s Local Bottles

Wine is grown just east of Bergamo in the scenic Valcalepio region. These DOC wines come in red, white, and even dessert varieties. I enjoyed my first red Valcalepio at 10:30 AM on our food tour. A great way to start the day!

Best Bars For Aperitivo

One of the best things about Bergamo is the sheer number of charming squares where you can sit back, sip a Spritz, and nibble on taglieri as the sun sets. Whether you’re in the Lower Town (Città Bassa) or the Upper Town (Città Alta), here are the best spots we found for aperitivo—and a few we skipped.

Where you eat often depends on where you’re based — here’s a guide to where to stay in Bergamo to help you choose your neighborhood.

⚠️ Pro tip: Watch out for wasps—they love your meats and cheeses as much as you do.

Lower Town (Città Bassa)

• Largo Rezzara
  A lively square with multiple aperitivo spots and a great atmosphere for people-watching. We ended up here often thanks to the energy and variety.

• Piazzetta Santo Spirito(Via Pignolo)
  A more tucked-away option with two good choices:
  
  • Cellarium Wine & Food – A bit upscale with a curated wine list.
  • Bar Raggio di Sole – More casual, perfect if you just want a quick drink.

• T-Bakery (Via Giuseppe Verdi)
  Young, modern vibe with a view looking straight up at Città Alta. Great at sunset. You’ll want a reservation if you’re coming with a group.
  
• Caffe de Colleoni
  Nice location along the Sentierone for an easy, central aperitivo.
  
• Cafetteria Balzer 1850
  A historic spot we considered, but didn’t find particularly compelling—though it has outdoor seating and might suit some travelers.
  
• Sandrina Food and Wine Club
  This is a fun spot to hang out with friends in the Santa Caterina neighborhood. Great for local wines and home cooked meals.

Upper Town (Città Alta)

• Bar Flora
  We found ourselves here more than once—great vibe and even sheltered us during a rainstorm. A solid go-to right in Piazza Vecchia.

• Al Donizetti
  Located under a beautiful portico with open walls. Feels elegant without being formal.
  
• Caffe del Tasso (Since 1476!)
  One of the oldest bars in Bergamo. The walls are lined with photos of all the famous people that have come here over the years. 

• La Birreria in Città Alta
  This is a bar and restaurant with a great selection of craft beers. Good pub food too but don’t get the polenta here.

• La Marianna
  We only went here for the famous original stracciatella gelato, but it is also a bar and restaurant. If you want to sit at the outdoor tables to eat your gelato, you have to also order something, like a coffee.

Best Restaurants and Pizzerias in Bergamo

Whether you’re craving wood-fired pizza, handmade pasta, or a quiet courtyard dinner, Bergamo has something to satisfy every food mood. Here’s where we ate (or wanted to eat!)—plus some memorable extras that made each place stand out.

Most of the restaurants and pizzerias we visited in Bergamo fall into the mid-range (€15–30 per person) or upscale (€30+) category. You won’t need to splurge to eat well, but a little extra budget does go a long way here—especially with wine and dessert.

Lower Town (Città Bassa)

• Caprizza
  Just across from Saint’Anna square, this Neapolitan-style pizzeria became our local go-to. I love the thin crust with puffy slightly burnt edges from the wood fired pizza.
  
  The owner from Napoli at first seemed brusque but was actually a sweetie pie—and the pizza was fantastic. Bonus: they’ll customize toppings and can zip down clear plastic walls to keep you dry during a storm.
  
• Gennaro e Pia
  A friendly, popular spot—make a reservation if you can. They squeezed us in last-minute and kindly moved us indoors when it started pouring. We got the pizza here, but it is also a full restaurant.

• Ristorante Pizzeria Piccolo Mare
  Casual, welcoming, and perfect for a laid-back lunch. They have a bustling business crowd during the day and a nifty retractable roof that rolls out with the press of a button when it rains. I got a spaghetti alle vongole – a nice change from casoncelli.

• Ristoro Pugliese
  Ask to sit in the quiet elegant courtyard that is behind the restaurant nestled between buildings. I had the strascinati with seasoned ricotta, a Pugliese-style pasta that made for a lovely change of pace from Bergamasco flavors.

• La Tagliatella
  The fresh tagliatelle made daily hanging in the window lured us in. Tagliatelle are my favorite go-to comfort pasta and are a nice change from the heavy casoncelli. This restaurant is actually a chain with over 230 restaurants in Spain and Portugal, but it is the only one in Italy.
  
• Ol Giopi e la Margi
  This was high on our list but we didn’t make it. It’s still worth including for its strong reputation—locals speak highly of the traditional Bergamasco dishes here.

Upper Town (Città Alta)

• Da Mimmo
  This spot has several variations, from upscale to casual. We went to Mimì, where we dined in a charming courtyard. Heads up: when we ordered bruschetta, they warned us theirs came with rabbit ragù—surprising but delicious.

• Al Donizetti
  We only stopped in for aperitivo, but it looked like a beautiful place for dinner. The space has serious ambiance under the portico.

• Circolino Città Alta
  Once a prison (yes, one of my own relatives was held here in the 1800s!), this place now has a huge covered garden area and a powerful mission: they employ and support people with disabilities. The food is solid and the atmosphere is relaxed and welcoming.

Best Local Cafes For Breakfast near Borgo Palazzo

Most of these spots are within walking distance of where we stayed in Borgo Palazzo, a residential neighborhood just east of the city center. Even if you’re staying somewhere else, I highly recommend exploring this area for an authentic, locals-first breakfast scene.

• Bus Stop Café
  Located on the ground floor of our apartment building, this became our daily go-to. The friendly owners gave us great day trip tips, and the menu has both Italian classics (like cornetti) and American-style pancakes and French toast. Don’t miss their toasted ham and cheese sandwich—simple, satisfying, and perfect with a cappuccino.

• Pasticceria Sant’Anna
  A local favorite and great for people-watching. You can stand at the bar for a quick espresso or grab a table and be served sweet or savory brioches. Always busy and delicious. Don’t forget you have to go to the cassa, or cash register, to pay as they don’t come back to you.
  
• Ad Majora Caffè
  We only found this spot late in our stay—and wished we’d discovered it sooner. Cozy with great service, it’s also a solid option for lunch or aperitivo with full bar if you linger past breakfast. It closes daily at 2:30 pm.

• La Coquette
  A small, stylish café along Via Pignolo with a warm, welcoming vibe. The owner befriends everyone (and documents it on Instagram—you might end up featured like we did!). We loved their avocado toast and vibrant atmosphere.
  

• Elidor Patisserie
  Elegant and tucked inside a courtyard, this place is easy to miss unless a local brings you—which is exactly how we found it. Beautiful pastries in a refined setting, perfect for a slower morning.

DIY Breakfast Options:

There used to be so many family owned bakeries, produce, cheese, and salami stores in Italy every few blocks where you could get everything you needed and experience authentic Italy by eavesdropping on the local gossip.

Unfortunately most of these have closed as big box grocery chains have become more convenient, so the mom and pop stores that remain are even more special. I noticed so many of the former ground level shops are now just closed serrande, or roll-down shutters.

In Bergamo, we found the Panificio Antico still making traditional rustic breads. However, I tried to add this to my Google Map, and I discovered it recently closed permanently. Another one bites the dust. 

However, right in Piazza Sant’Anna, there’s a wonderful produce stand where you can grab fresh fruit. And, across the street, Panificio Vanotti is a neighborhood bakery ideal for picking up bread, pastries, or picnic staples if you’re heading out for a day trip. 

Where We Stayed (and Why I’d Stay There Again)

We spent a month in Borgo Palazzo, a local neighborhood east of the city center. Borgo Palazzo near Sant’Anna square was the perfect home base—full of friendly cafés, walkable streets, and fewer tourists. 

I would recommend the exact apartment, but unfortunately the host recently closed it and turned it into a long-term rental because of high costs and taxes. 

If you’re looking for an authentic Bergamo experience, click here to browse places to stay in Borgo Palazzo on Booking.com.

Want to Save All These Spots?

👉 Check out my custom Google Map of Bergamo restaurants here.

Would I Go To All These Places Again?

Absolutely. In fact, I was a repeat customer at many of them—especially the pizzerias and cafés near our apartment in Borgo Palazzo. We became friendly with several of the owners, and I’m already looking forward to surprising a few of them this summer when I go back.

There are still a handful of spots I missed, and next time I plan to explore even more.

If you want to try several dishes in one sitting, a food tour is a great option.

👉 Ready to explore Bergamo? Read: Things to Know Before You Visit Bergamo in the Summer

Planning your Northern Italy Trip? Read More Of Tips and Stories:

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• Things to Know Before You Visit Bergamo in the Summer
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